Friday 23 August 2013

A renaissance past Cartagena's historical walls

Visitors to Cartagena, the sultry port city on Colombia’s Caribbean coast, rarely leave its cobblestoned core. Surrounded by 500-year-old citadel walls, the Centro Historico is a Unesco World Heritage Site, with Spanish colonial architecture, worldwide branded luxury hotels and obvious traveller appeal.



A renaissance past Cartagena's historical walls

A renaissance past Cartagena’s historical walls



Relevant write-up: Trekking to Colombia’s Lost City

Just south of its old walls lies Getsemani, Cartagena’s hippest community and one of Latin America’s most recent hotspots. Once a woebegone area characterised by criminal activity and crumbling architecture, Getsemani is undergoing a 21st-century renaissance. A new generation is invigorating the barrio (neighborhood), recovering public plazas and renovating 200-year-old buildings into privately-owned dress shop hotels and awesome nightclubs.

Like Rome, Cartagena’s coolest quarter was not constructed in a day. As recently as 10 years back, tourists hardly ever checked out Colombia at all. Cautious of the nation’s extensively reported terrible drug trade, travelers going south spent their vacations surfing in Costa Rica or partying in Buenos Aires instead.

As the Colombian economy has actually stabilised, Cartagena has gotten significant esteem in the hearts, minds and airfare purchases of international jetsetters. Prominent hotels such as Hotel Tcherassi and Sofitel Santa clam Clara are at ability throughout yearly occasions like the Hay Festival, a branch of the UK literary fair of the same name.

Regardless of being located close to the historical center, Getsemani continues to be something of an insider’s key. Its narrow streets, when filled with trash, are now lined with dress shop hotels preferred by intrepid tourists who seek an even more authentic Cartagena. The hotel was called for the Colombian patriot Esubio Maria Canabal, who lived in Getsemani when he battled for freedom from Spain in 1811.

A short walk away is Coffee shop Havana, Getsemani’s exceptionally popular Cuban salsa club. (Clinton saw Cartagena for the Summit of the Americas in April 2012, and images of her swigging beers among Café Havana’s salseros set US political sites ablaze.).

The celebration continues at Bazurto Social Club, a dancehall opened by Cartagena restaurateur Jorge Escadón in 2009. Escadón’s first spot– the fine dining bistro La Cevicheria– is a Centro Historico mainstay seen by moneyed vacationers. Anthony Bourdain filmed an episode of the TV program No Reservations there in 2008. The scene at Bazurto is significantly edgier, with Getsemani’s lovely young things partying till the wee hours, grooving to resident DJs and a dynamic house band. The kitchen area serves fried fish meals and tough cocktails such as the machacao, made from white rum, lime juice and potent yerba mate tea.

Getsemani is likewise house to culinary and cultural facilities such as Casa Pájaro, a mix art gallery, ice cream store and wine bar launched by Colombian sculptor and architect Emilio Hernandez in 2012. Trained as graphic designers, they kitted out the space in bright colors and covered the walls with framed photographs of the area.

Once a dangerous, drug-addled spot, the plaza is today filled with picnicking households, food carts selling homemade empanadas and residents talking over Aguila beers. Sometimes, someone from the barrio will stroll with wearing a t-shirt that checks out Orgullosamente Getsemanisense, or “Proud to be from Getsemani”.


Simply south of its ancient walls lies Getsemani, Cartagena’s hippest community and one of Latin America’s latest hotspots. As the Colombian economy has actually stabilised, Cartagena has actually gained considerable esteem in the hearts, minds and airfare purchases of international jetsetters. Its narrow roads, once filled with garbage, are now lined with boutique hotels favored by brave tourists who seek a more real Cartagena. (Clinton checked out Cartagena for the Summit of the Americas in April 2012, and pictures of her swigging beers among Café Havana’s salseros set United States political sites ablaze.).

The party continues at Bazurto Social Club, a dancehall opened by Cartagena restaurateur Jorge Escadón in 2009.



A renaissance past Cartagena's historical walls

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